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Dr Bill

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The newbie is here again.  I got an assortment of boro rods and let my kids play with it.  I saw they were not having the problem of shocking rods all the time.  It is a little harder to draw with but it is a lot more forgiving.  These kids will put things down when they get frustrated and with the boro they could warm it back up and work on their beads or marbles without the glass breaking apart a great advantage as they think everything they make is the best they have ever seen even when they put so many colors together the bead looks like muddy water. 

My question is can we use the frit from Devardi on the boro or do I need to make some frit from the boro.  They don’t use that much on each bead but they like putting it on every bead they make.  I have not let them put my frit on the boro as I don’t want it to go to waste from work breaking.  Do I need to worry about this or is it ok.

Thank you.


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Daniel

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Reply with quote  #2 
Hi Dr. Bill, sometimes you can mix glass from different COE's on a limited basis. I often use a little bit of COE 96 reduction frit on my beads that are made with COE 104 soft glass. However, with boro it is a different story. The COE is 33 and much too different than soft glass to be able to successfully mix them. The two glass types will shrink much differently than each other when they cool, and will crack where they are in contact.
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Fine Folly

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Reply with quote  #3 
Hi Daniel,

I wanted to ask if Boro has to be annealed to remain stable?  Is it like 104 with internal stress that will eventually break if it's hit just right? 

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Kristina

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Daniel

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Hi Kristina, sorry, I missed this message. Yes, most people who use boro anneal. Although, boro is much more stable and rigid than soft glass, it is still a good idea to anneal. Annealing temps are higher than for soft glass. It is best to check with the boro brand manufacturer for proper annealing temperatures. For Devardi Boro, 1080 degrees F seems to be best, I have found. That is also what is recommended by the factory. Standard ramping down will do fine.
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Dr Bill

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Reply with quote  #5 
I am now using my mini annealer as a holding kiln then cooling using annealling beads and then batch annealing in a china painting kiln donated to me.  I am annealling both the boro (1000F) and coe 104 (950F) (I only use devardi glass, I have never even tryed another glass as I am happy with the colors and devardi glass rocks).  I love the new boro you have Daniel and have been playing with it alot.  The shorts I got I use to a 1" stub using your rod holder and that left over piece is smashed into frit (someday I will get a frit maker).

Thank you Daniel and Natasha so much for your help and support.

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Fine Folly

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Reply with quote  #6 
Dr. Bill, I hope you will post some of your boro work.  We don't get to see many pics of what people do with it!
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jdleigh

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Reply with quote  #7 
Dr. Bill, you are not the only newbie!

My question is similar to Dr. Bill's. I have some Simax (System 96 stringers & ribbons, which MAY mean COE 96, I don't know) that I got at Bead Expo in Las Vegas in 2009.

I am an intermediate beginner in my glass adventure, and I wondered whether these System 96 stringers/ribbon (dichro) would work OK as embellishments on a COE 104 bead? What if I used COE 90 (Bullseye)? I don't know whether 'similarity' in COE is an indicator or not, but I would like to have some ideas.
 
This is not a CRITICAL inquiry, but I would love to have some 'guidelines' other that " try it and see." Any ideas??

Leigh Steiner
Sarasota, Fl
Daniel

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Reply with quote  #8 
Hi Leigh, as a general rule, mixing COE's can be done only on a limited basis. COE 33 is the exception. Can't mix it with other COE's. But, mixing COE 96 with COE 104 can be done, as long as you don't use more than about 10-15% of one of them. In other words, 10-15% COE 96 with 85-90% COE 104, or the reverse. Same with mixing COE 96 and COE 90. Mixing COE 90 and COE 104 can be a bit more challenging, but can also be done. 

Hope that helps. 

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