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Jbruce

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Reply with quote  #1 
Hi!
Not new to bead making, no expert either still think of myself as new. My question is I'm on a hot head torch and I was wanting to try the davardi glass, I've only worked with COE 104 will I have trouble using this glass and is there any that won't work with my torch.
Thank you
Jean
Jbruce

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Reply with quote  #2 
Hi
Maybe need to ask my question differently.
I use a hot head and just found this website and love the look of the darvadi glass and would like to try some, but before I spent to much on glass I want to know does it work well with a hot head torch and is there certain colors that doesn't work well with my torch
Thanks
Jean
Fine Folly

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Reply with quote  #3 

Hi Jean,

I am mostly on a Hothead Torch, and I use the different colors and types of Devardi.  I like the Semi Opaques and Transparents best I think.   Some Devardi glass is sensitive to to much Propane, so be sure to work about 4" away from the head of your torch on a medium to lower flame if you find a glass is touchy.

I put a 0 to 60psi Regulator on my Hothead Torch (on the tank of propane actually) to bring down the pressure and allow lower heat working ranges.  I really like it.  It's about $25 to do that.  You do need an adapter from the Regulator to the hose, but any Hardware store can fit it for you if you take in both pieces..  Another benefit is that you waste far less propane when you burn out your Torch each day.

I would encourage you to buy a rod or two of the colors that interest you and try them like you like to use glass.  I like to use the Copper Black or Metallic Black instead of the regular, because I found it to be more pliant and stretchy in stringer work.  I also prefer to use Semi Opaque White instead of the Opaque White when using my Hothead.

I hope this helps.  Ask more questions if you have them and be sure to visit the free Tutorial area.  There's a lot of info there.

Propane Regulator Hookup TEXT 100-4.jpg 


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Kristina

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Jbruce

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Reply with quote  #4 
Thanks for the information Kristina, I'm going to order some of the glass and try it. Love the colors of the glass . New question can I use it with my 104 glass or should I keep them separate. I'm working on getting a regulator for my tank.

Thanks again
Jean
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Reply with quote  #5 
Hi Jean,

I do mix my 104's, but a test is always good.  I like to do test beads and then anneal them to be sure the glass plays nice when I am encasing or layering.  Most do play nice, but it's not happy when one doesn't.

Theres a neat compatibility test that I read about (that I have yet to use)... you stripe two colors together the same thickness, then heat well and pinch the tip and pull down (away from the flame) to pull a needle point.  As it cools if it cools straight it's a match.  If one side has curl the COE are slightly different and may crack.

Hope that helps!

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Kristina

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ekoocma

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Reply with quote  #6 
Fine Folly, I am delighted to see this post as I'm experiencing some sadness in my glass adventures. After working I am annealing and am still having some cracking a day or so later. I am going to test this out this weekend and see if that is the cause.
I do love the Devardi glass and even more Natasha & Daniel and all the personal help they've provided. I will get a handle on this cracking thing!

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Fine Folly

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Reply with quote  #7 
ekoocma, it's not just Devardi, but others as well... especially when you use frit with 104.

I have found that the best thing is to test and wait a week or two on mixed glass beads, when possible.  A bead strand may not show cracks or incompatibility for a week or more, and then you may find fractures when looking carefully.

The different use of heat also impacts the glasses in a mixed bead...  I have encased Devardi beads from years ago that are fine, and I have found fractures in other combinations... so test your favorite colors and glass types and keep a notebook if you like that kind of reference.  There are some glasses I don't use due to their fussiness in the way I work glass.

Also be sure to fully clean off the oil that comes on the glass when you get a new order.  I use hot soapy water, rinse hot and then dry, and then lay the rods out on a paper towel and spray down with windex and wipe again.  That almost imperceptible surface oil can have an impact as well.





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Kristina

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ekoocma

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Reply with quote  #8 
Until this past week on one of these sites I had no idea that cleaning the glass was done! I have been cleaning all my glass now. Do you have to keep cleaning it if it sits around for a while? I only get to melt glass on the weekends as I don't get home in time to do any during the week.
Thanks for the help! It's greatly appreciated!

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Fine Folly

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Reply with quote  #9 
Once I clean the glass, if it has sat for a while I keep a bottle of Alcohol and dip the rod and wipe it off before use.  Usually that is enough to clear any debris that has collected.  You could also use a glass cleaner.

Depending on where you live it is amazing how much can collect on glass rods!  I hope you can see a big improvement.  Usually Clear is the easiest to see the benefit on.

I'm so glad this was helpful!

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Kristina

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ekoocma

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Reply with quote  #10 
I saw in this post thread that you use a regulator with the HH torch. I've been using a bulk tank with 25' hose but without a regulator. Is this why when I get suggestions from Natasha at Devardi she tells me to turn the torch on full and when I do it is REALLY whooshing gas! I can't do it because I just don't feel safe! Am I supposed to be using a regulator?
That could explain a lot.
Fine Folly you do have some great advise so please let me know!

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Fine Folly

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Reply with quote  #11 
Is there a reason you have a 25' long propane hose?  Please tell me so that we can talk from more information.  The long hose also affects the torch performance.

A regulator takes the full pressure out of the hose line, and lets you control the force of the flame better.  It also lets you turn your flame down to a very low soft feathery flame to do detail work without melting it, like this Egg.  It was made with Devardi SOP Baby Blue and Goldstone Stringer.

Can you get a shorter hose and a regulator?
EGG SOPLtBlue-GldstoneLipstick 2Views 100-1.9.jpg

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Kristina

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ekoocma

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Reply with quote  #12 
After your post my DH got me a regulator and I'm now working with a 5' hose and a 0-60 regulator. I had the 25' hose because Devardi sells it for their bulk tank connection. I liked having a bit longer hose but I'm getting adjusted to the shorter one.

I had a bit of trouble with my first HH style from Devardi with an internal washer deteriorating and leaking gas behind the cup. Devardi was AWESOME with their help - as usual and so I've been reluctant to use lower temps. I really would like to see a video showing the HH working flame. All the videos focus on the bead, not the flame. Not having an actual person to stand over my shoulder I'm kind of guessing at what I'm doing.

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Fine Folly

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Reply with quote  #13 
I'm glad you have the regulator now, you should see a big difference in flame control.   My hose is about 11 ft long I think.  Some people need a lot of hose length to get outside, but you do loose a lot of gas in the long line when you have to clear out the hose (at the end of your torching session).  The regulator will reduce how much gas is in the line as well as reduce the force of it in your torch head.  And it lets you turn the torch lower for detail work.

I don't know if you do, but I always use a Rod Warmer when I use Devardi, or I get their thick stringers that don't need prewarming.  A Rod Warmer gets rid of almost all shock if you hold the rod to the side as you work (instead of over the flame in front of you).

I would encourage you to play with heating one glass color to different levels (white or black for example) as you get comfortable with the flame stages.  There is no substitute from time spent observing your flame levels and how it impacts a color of glass.   Black is good because it changes color as it gets hotter, like the pics below.

To start, set your flame as low as you can without it going out.  Make a bead using a tool to shape it if you have to, and then increase the heat and make one at the next up level, and so on.  Have a bowl of Distilled water close by, to cool your tool if you use one. 

Working from low to higher torch settings will show you how glass goes from stiff to softer to hot.  And each glass color handles a bit differently, so you get practice getting used to watching for the changes that happen at the different levels of heat, once you can see them in just one glass color.


This is from the free Tutorial section, showing in pictures the making of a bead using a brass tool and heat.

Screen shot 2015-05-18 at 8.22.10 AM.png 
Another tell tale thing is that there is a real difference in the loudness or volume of the torch as you turn it up.  You will hear it as you turn your flame up from the lowest working flame.  Eventually your ear will hear the low setting and the normal working range you use.

At the hotter setting you may see soot form on your glass.  Use white or clear and watch for it.  If you move your hands and work to close to the torch you can add soot, and if you get the heat to high it can add soot, although the regulator will prevent a lot of it.  I work in a range from low to medium high and don't get soot anymore usually.  I am using a Hothead torch.  Some of the generic torches can put out more propane and make some glass colors fussier to work - some colors react to propane when you get beyond a neutral flame mix of oxygen and propane.

Try using one glass - clear or white, and make different shapes and sizes.  See what your different flame levels do when you are handling the glass. 

These different exercises really helped me when I started, and should help you understand your heat ranges and glass softening stages - if you stick with just a few colors to learn the heat levels.  The regulator will make a big difference.  Please give it a try and let us know how you are doing.


And I sure agree, Daniel and Natasha at Devardi are two of the nicest people on the planet.

 



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Kristina

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